UBUD - The Art Village

What's Ubud ??

Ubud is a remarkable town in the middle of the island of Bali. For more than a century, it has been the island's preeminent centre for fine arts, dance and music. While it once was a haven for scruffy backpackers, cosmic seekers, artists and bohemians, Ubud is now a hot spot for literati, glitterati, art collectors and connoisseurs. Famous names walk its busy sidewalks everyday. Elegant five star hotels and sprawling mansions now stand on its outskirts, overlooking the most prized views in Bali. Nonetheless, Ubud is still popular with backpackers, mystics and all the finest fringe elements of global society. Ubud is not "ruined". Its character is too strong to be destroyed. It still draws people who add something; people who are actively involved in art, nature, anthropology, music, dance, architecture, environmentalism, "alternative modalities," and more.

Ubud is arguably the best place to use as a base if you're visiting Bali; if you're looking for culture, comfort, nature and inspiration. Ubud is surrounded by most of the things that bring people to Bali -- scenic rice fields, small villages, art and craft communities, ancient temples, palaces, rivers, cheap accommodation and unique luxury hotels. And it's central location makes it easy to get from Ubud to the mountains, beaches, and major towns.




Ubud's Royal Palaces

Ubud has been a "royal town" for over a hundred years. Its princes, who bear the title "Tjokorda" or "Agung" still live in traditional palaces, called "Puris". Be aware, however, that every place called "puri" is not a royal palace. The word has been used quite liberally of late. Also be aware that there is not one palace in Ubud, but many, most of them clustered around the main cross-roads near the Bud market. There are several other "royal" towns in the Bud area, too, with their own palaces, most of which have close family ties to the Bud Tjokordas. A web of connections is maintained by incidental and arranged marriages among the respective offspring of princes in Sayan, Pejeng, Singapadu, Peliatan, and Payangan's puris.
Although the old Balinese feudal system was superseded by the Dutch colonial government more that eighty years ago, the Tjokordas still retain a special role in Ubud society. Many leadership roles, both sacred and secular are held by Tjokordas. They also figure prominently in the local business community, arts institutions, and professional circles. While no formal power is automatically granted to someone because they come from a puri, the Ubud royals still command respect solely on the basis of their heredity. They also command respect from some quarters on the basis of their rather disproportionate wealth.
The palaces have long been the largest landholders in the area. They used to manifest this role in a largely "custodial" way, managing vast tracts of rice-growing land for the benefit of the community and the temples. In recent times, however, with the advent of western models of land ownership, many palaces have developed or sold landholdings to augment their personal wealth--sometimes conspicuously. In pre-colonial Bali, palaces were the primary patrons of art, music, dance and literature. The Ubud palaces consciously continue this tradition. They act as repositories of traditional culture, and develop artistic endeavours throughout the area, much to the benefit of both Ubudians and visitors.

The Tjokordas are no longer the physical embodiment of The State, they are just private citizens, with the same concerns as other private citizens, plus a few more. Accordingly, the Ubud palaces are essentially just family homes, and none have yet been turned into museums of public tourist attractions. While some of them are fine examples of traditional architecture, none are "historical" in terms of age. In fact, most are pretty new. The oldest Ubud palace was located a little to the east of Pura Dalem Ubud, above the main road. It collapsed in an earthquake early this century, and nothing remains but a flat place with traces of foundation here and there.

Arts in Ubud 

If you like it, buy it. It's hard to know if you like it in an unfamiliar environment. Spend some time with a work, and see how it makes you feel. If it is a startlingly strong feeling, an excitement, then the chemistry is good. Buy it. Prices are generally not negotiable in the fine art galleries. For more "commercial" art, in the smaller, less formal galleries, however, you may ask if the price is open to discussion. Don't worry too much about price. Prices in Ubud, tend to be very, very reasonable. This holds for truly fine art, and also for the many attractive and decorative paintings that are produced and sold throughout the area. Don't turn up your nose a the latter category; much of the less expensive art available in Ubud clearly falls into the category of Folk Art or High Quality Craft. As such, most are works of lasting value, which will be greatly appreciated at home, and will perhaps appreciate in value as well.
Craft (As Opposed to Art)

Somewhere there is a dividing fine between "art' and "craft," and regardless of where you place the fine, the Ubud area has plenty of both. On the side of craft, there are scores of "art shops" lining the main roads which connect Ubud to surrounding towns. Notably, the road from Peliatan to Pujung, which is dotted with woodcarving galleries and other craft shops. In Tegallalang and surrounding villages you will find Bali's best Garuda and Singga carvers, among the cheesy pop-art wooden souvenirs. Small woodcarvings of every sort are widely available in Ubud, Tegallalang, Pujung, Nyuh Kuning, Mas, Teges, and in abundance at the Sukawati art market, about twenty minutes south of Ubud. You can get pieces in naturally-finished woods representing animals, religious figures, people and so forth. Some woodcarvings are art, and others are simply craft. We'll leave it to you to decide which is which.
Throughout the Ubud area, you can pick up inexpensive small paintings which make excellent decorative accents back home. Other crafts in the towns surrounding Ubud include weaving (Gianyar area), stone carving (Batubulan), basket making (Bona), bamboo and rattan work (Sakah and Bona), jewellery (Celuk), bone and coconut carving (Tampaksiring), batik, furniture making, bronze casting, and, decorative metalwork. Most guidebooks have a good map showing which towns are centres for which craft.
The entire Gianyar district is densely populated with craftspeople in every imaginable medium. The majority of them are delighted to create works to order, so let loose the latent designer in you. Simply bring along a sketch, sample, or magazine clipping. Alternatively, if you like what you see in a showroom, but have an idea how it could be improved, explain what variation you have in mind. Don't forget to agree on a price in advance.

One word of warning to craft-shoppers. Prices are usually very, very flexible. Be prepared to barter. But always be polite. Some merchants are firm about prices, and rightly so. A final word of warning. Tour companies, drivers and guides are given large commissions for bringing buyers to art shops, and the cost of the commission is tacked onto the price you pay. So if you want the best price, go on your own, or choose a driver or guide who agrees to take you shopping without chasing commissions.



Activities  in Ubud

Walking

Just go! There are many wonderful walks in every direction from Ubud, through villages, rice terraces, jungle gorges, and grassy hilltops. Don't be afraid. Just strike out in any direction. You can walk anywhere you like, without "trespassing." Don't be shy, just be courteous. The best of the Ubud area is off the roads, so grab a map, or just go rambling without one, Often the best discoveries are purely coincidental and can't be found in any guidebook. If you prefer to follow a good leader, day treks are offered by adventure guides like Sobek (Tel - 287059), Ayung (Tel - 238759) and Adventure Products (tel - Vayatours 285555). Sobek's itineraries include the Bali Bird Walk, and if it's plants your after, call Lilir (t - 974865) to join a Bali Herb Walk, and learn about the many fragrant, edible and medicinal plants that surround you. Vayatours also leads walking tours in the Ubud area, focusing on historic Pejeng, and the hills and villages North of Campuan.

Biking

Bicycling is a great way to see the Ubud area, and to stay fit. The early morning hours are best, when it's still cool. You can peddle sedately along backroads, or take a mountain bike and bash your way down precipitous gorges, along slippery rice terrace dikes, or through rough village byways pocked with craters. A truly glorious ride is to slog all the way up to Kintamani on the crater of Mt. Batur then glide effortlessly back downhill to Ubud through a chain of traditional villages dotted with craft studios and cafes. For the lazy, you can find a car and driver in the middle of Ubud, put your bikes in and just do the downhill bit. Rent a bike in Monkey Forest Road, grab a Bali map, then find a driver in front of the tourist information office at Ubud Corner, and you're on your way. Another way to go is to call adventure guides like Sobek (Tel 287059) or Ayung (Tel 238759) who lead biking tours suitable for the whole family, with every little detail provided.
Rental Bikes are available for about 5,000 rupiah per day from many places in Monkey Forest Road and elsewhere. Once you're on your way, try hard to avoid the main roads because traffic is horrendous, except at the crack of dawn. All of the back roads are negotiable by bicycle and are only steep where they cross a river gorge (east to west). Otherwise, they generally run uphill gently from south to north. We recommend you ride north first, until you've had enough, then coast back downhill, and eat ---- bigtime. Adventure guides like Sobek (287059) and Ayung (238759) also offer day trips.

Hashing (Crosscountry Running, Trotting and Strolling)
The Hash House Harriers is a world-wide organization of people who like to trot cross-country together, then sit back and have a good laugh afterwards. The Bali chapter runs on Monday, Thursday and Saturday. Weekly Has sheets are supposedly available at the Beggar's Bush in Ubud (Tel - 975009).

Rafting
The rivers around Ubud provide pleasant rafting conditions year round --- with enough rapids to make the ride fun, but still mild enough for those who tend to be timid when it comes to whitewater. Rafting also provides an unrivalled way to check out the natural scenery, wildlife and exotic plants of Bali, while sitting happily on your rear end! And it's a good way to cool off if the tropical heat gets oppressive. Call Sobek (Tel - 287059) , Ayung (Tel - 238759) or Bali Adventure Rafting (Tel - 721480) and they will take care of everything for you, including transportation, equipment and food. Your hotel can book rafting for you, if you don't feel like phoning. Prices for a half day river trip are about US$60.

Kayaking
Ayung (Tel - 238759) offers kayaking in easy to handle inflatable boats on the scenic Ayung River. No prior experience required, just a healthy body and a willing attitude.

Bird Watching
Sobek now organises the famous "Bali Bird Walks", which are light-hearted explorations of the Ubud area, seeking ornithological oddities. The program was started by Victor Mason, a famous local character and the former publican at the Beggar's Bush in Campuan. (Tel - 287059).

Elephant Trekking is now available in the village of Taro, twenty minutes north of Ubud. You can ride an elephant, then feed it and give it a bath. Open 9 to 4 every day, no reservations necessary, just show up in Taro with $27 and choose your mount.

Badminton Indonesians as a rule are keen on badminton. Ubudians are no exception. Most afternoons, around 5:00 or so, men get together to play in the bale banjar in every community in the area. Foreigners have often joined in, and been welcome to do so. The standard of play is generally quite high.

Volleyball Volleyball is popular in Indonesia. There are community courts, often near bale banjars, and men get together to play, usually in the afternoon. Listen for shouting, and see if they can rotate you in.
Football/Soccer There are a number of temporary and permanent teams that play around Ubud. Some of the less formal ones are Bebek United (headquartered at the Bebek Bengil Restaurant) and the Sai-Sai Team (headquartered at the bar of the same name). Masses of people congregate to kick a ball around the Ubud field in the afternoons if there's not a game or an organized practice. Foreigners often join in. The situation may be similar at other fields in the area, too. In general, throughout the world, a good player, or a good-natured one is always a welcome addition.

Swimming
Ubud has no public pool, but many hotels let non-guests have a swim for a small fee. Hotel pools are generally too small for a serious workout, though. You can swim in the Wos and Ayung Rivers. Just find a good place and go for it.

Fishing
Eel-fishing in the rice fields at night is a popular pastime. Fishing for shrimp, freshwater crab, and small fingerlings in the rivers upstream from Ubud is also popular. Ask some local fellows if you can join them. Times are usually chosen in relation to the cycle of rice crops, the phases of the moon, and the Balinese calendar.

Workouts
There's no aerobics studio or gym in Ubud. Yet. Occasionally teachers pass through town. Some of the banjars, for example Nyuh Kuning, have aerobics workouts in their bale banjar. Dress is modest, and routines are very straightforward and not too strenuous. Ask a local about this, or check at the bale banjar to see if there's a schedule up. At the crack of dawn large groups gather in football fields for mass calisthenics. It's a patriotic thing. We know nothing specific about this at time of writing, but check out the Ubud field around 6:30 or 7:00. There is apparently a community exercise hall in Peliatan that offers classes, but no details at time of writing.

Golf, Tennis
No golf yet, but there are rumours of a golf course development in the Kedewatan area, north of Sayan. The only tennis court we know about in the area is at the Hotel Tjampuan.